São Paulo – The stories behind recipes, famous restaurants, and even dining customs of Arab culture are explored through research, historical s, and preparation methods in Diogo Bercito’s new book, Brimos à mesa: histórias da culinária árabe no Brasil [Brimos around the table: Stories of Arab cuisine in Brazil] (Fósforo, 288 pages) to hit bookstores later this month.
Author of Brimos: Imigração sírio-libanesa no Brasil e seu caminho até a política [Brimos: Syrian-Lebanese immigration in Brazil and its path to politics], published in 2021 by the same publisher, Bercito now explores how Arab dishes—both savory and sweet—have influenced Brazilian culture, and in turn, how they were shaped by the availability of local ingredients. The book also highlights the importance of Arab cuisine in preserving the identity of immigrants and their descendants in Brazil.
In the book, Bercito describes the work—a cultural history essay—as the beginning of a “conversation” aimed at broadening the understanding of the “adventures and misadventures” of Arabs who immigrated to Brazil. He notes that younger generations no longer speak Arabic, but the language endures in the kitchen and in the names of dishes: labneh instead of coalhada seca (strained yogurt) and betinjan instead of berinjela (eggplant) are just two examples of how culture is preserved at the table.
On his journey through Arab flavors, Bercito traces the origins of traditional recipes such as the sfiha. He also recounts the history of famous and long-standing restaurants that continue to bring immigrant recipes—adapted to local tastes and ingredients—to Brazilians.
A journalist for Folha de S. Paulo, Middle East specialist, and doctoral candidate in history at Georgetown University, Bercito drew on primary sources in his research. Newspapers, magazines, and immigrant records were among the materials he used to write Brimos à mesa.
The author used research from the Arab-Brazilian Chamber of Commerce (ABCC)—conducted by H2R Insights & Trends and former Ibope Intelligence polling firm—including a study that estimates 12 million people of Arab descent in Brazil. He also cites another finding from the survey, which shows that 72% of respondents said they maintained their connection to their homeland through food.
Some of the key ingredients of Brimos à mesa are numbers, stories, traditional dishes, memories, and restaurants. And of course, recipes—readers interested in preparing some typical dishes can find at the end of the book instructions for making tabbouleh, kibbeh nayeh, and stuffed grape leaves, among other recipes that have become popular in Brazil.
Quick facts:
Book: Brimos à mesa: histórias da culinária árabe no Brasil
Author: Diogo Bercito
288 pages
Prices: BRL 99,90 (e-book BRL 69,90)
Read on:
Homemade snacks turn into tasty business
Translated by Guilherme Miranda
